Swap the socket. Keep the lamp.

Unplug the lamp. Take off the shade, bulb and harp.

1. Pull the lamp's plug out of the wall.
2. Unscrew the finial on top and lift the shade off.
3. Unscrew the bulb.
4. Slide the harp's two keepers, the little sleeves on its legs, up off the saddle's receivers. Squeeze the legs together so they come out through the receivers' slots, and lift the harp off. The saddle, the bracket under the socket, stays on the lamp.

Remove the old socket.

1. Press the brass shell where it says PRESS, near the bottom, and pull it up off the cap. The cardboard sleeve comes off with it.
2. Loosen the two terminal screws, one on each side, and unhook the wires. If the wires are tied in a knot, untie it.
3. If the cap has a small set screw on its side, loosen it. Unscrew the cap off the threaded pipe and slide it off the cord.

Thread wick's base onto the pipe.

1. wick comes assembled. Take out the three screws on top of the head and lift the head off the base.
2. Open the base's mains cover: put a fingernail under its end by the center hole and flip it up on its hinge.
3. Take a photo of the setup code on the bottom of the base. It's the same as the one on the card in the box, and you can't see it once wick is on the lamp.
4. Feed the cord up through the brass bushing in the middle of the base.
5. Turn the base onto the pipe, clockwise, until it sits snug on the harp's saddle. Hand-tight is enough, or give its hex a quarter turn more with a 9/16 in wrench.

wick has no set screw. Snugging the base down on the saddle is what keeps it from turning.

Connect the two wires.

1. Pull the cord's two wires apart, down to the pipe. The channel has two sides, with L and N molded into the floor of each.
2. Find the neutral wire: its insulation has ribs you can feel with a fingernail. The hot wire is smooth. (On some cords the neutral is white, or has a stripe or printing.) Lay the ribbed wire in the N side and the smooth wire in the L side.
3. Cut each wire level with the far edge of its terminal's square plate. Strip 1/4 in (6 mm) of insulation off the end and twist the strands tight.
4. Loosen the screw, slide the bare wire straight in under the square plate beside it, and tighten firmly. No hook needed. Tug each wire to check it holds.
5. Press both wires down into the channel and close the cover until it clicks.

Getting these the right way round keeps the bulb's threaded shell on the neutral side. If you're not sure which wire is which, stop and ask a lamp shop.

Put the head back on.

1. Turn the head so its knob is on the side away from the cover's hinge. It only fits one way.
2. Lower it straight down until it sits flat on the base, with no gap.
3. Put the three screws back in the holes in the top and tighten them until they're snug. Don't force them.

Refit the harp, the bulb and the shade.

1. Squeeze the harp's legs together, set them into the saddle's two receivers through the slots, and let go. Slide the keepers back down over the receivers.
2. Screw in an E26 bulb all the way, until it stops. Up to 100 W, or your lamp's own limit if it's lower.
3. Set the shade on the harp and screw the finial back on.

Dimmer models need a dimmable bulb. 3-Way models take a 3-way bulb.

Plug in, turn the knob, and add wick to your home.

1. Plug the lamp back in and turn the knob one click. The lamp comes on.
2. Open Apple Home, Google Home or the Alexa app, choose to add a device, and scan the setup code on the card in the box (or your photo of the one under the base).
3. While wick waits to be added, the little flame over the "i" in its wordmark breathes slowly.

The knob always works, app or no app. wick joins your home over Wi-Fi, or over Thread if you have a Thread hub: Thread is a low-power wireless network built for smart-home devices, and it's inside many smart speakers and TV boxes. Keep the card, or your photo of the code: you'll need it to add wick again later.